1. WATCH THOSE FINS! To prevent breakage when moving or handling your fish mount, slow down and be aware of where the fins are in relation to surrounding objects. Don't allow young children to touch or bend the fins--they're experts at breaking things! (A broken fin can be repaired, but prevention is better.)

2. To hang your fish mount, use a round-headed screw (or a sturdy nail with a large head). The hanger is designed to fit snugly over the head of the screw or nail to allow the mount to be securely attached to the wall. The mount must be lifted up to be removed. Slow down and be careful when you hang the mount or remove it from the wall. If the mount is heavy, be sure the screw or nail is secured in the wood stud behind a gyproc wall, or use a screw anchor.

3. All mounts eventually collect dust. You can restore them to their original appearance by carefully wiping them with a cloth dampened with water, or lightly sprayed with a commercial dust cleaner (e.g., Endust). A moistened Q-tip will allow you to clean between the fin rays and any corners. WATCH THOSE FINS. DO NOT use any type of solvent (e.g., Varsol, lacquer thinner) to clean your fish mount.

4. If the fish mount is exposed to excessive smoke (wood or tobacco), some discoloration or yellowing may occur. This is not on the surface--the smoke penetrates through the finish.

5. The fish should not be hung where it is exposed to direct sunlight or extremes of humidity, or temperature (e.g., above a fireplace or wood stove).

6. At Silver Doctor Taxidermy Studio a fish skin mount has been carefully prepared, using museum-based taxidermy methods. Oils and fats in cold-water species have been removed through a multi-step process, to eliminate any future oozing of oil out to the painted surface, which would ruin the mount and leave an unpleasant smell. Virtually all traces of muscle or flesh, brain tissue, and most of the bones, have been painstakingly removed, to limit shrinkage and leave nothing edible for insects or rodents. The skin has been "pickled" or treated, to destroy bacteria, and preserve it. A glue is used to attach the skin to the carved body, so there is no future rippling or "drumming" of the skin with exposure to excessively damp or dry conditions. An insecticide has been added to the glue to discourage anything from attacking and destroying your trophy. Several coats of sealer and gloss finish are typically used to protect the skin from the elements. With all these steps and the use of quality materials, you should have many, many years of continued enjoyment of your trophy. If any problems should develop due to workmanship, Silver Doctor Taxidermy Studio will correct the situation at no cost.

This article was contributed by the Silver Doctor Taxidermy Studio, visit their website for more details.