By David Heinke

My time was almost up in Apalach. The week flew by with the type of speed that indicates you’ve stayed busy having a good time. Truly the "Forgotten Coast", Apalachicola is an anachronism. Despite finding the community to be vibrant, warm and enjoying life, the setting is of a time long ago before the gargantuan malled asphalt world of today’s cityscape. Perhaps living in a community of tree lined streets, crushed oyster shell parking lots, and neighbors who wave and sit on porches while enjoying the marine and wildlife of a naturally beautiful environment is what puts the smiles on folks faces and makes them so darn friendly.

After a week in town, everywhere I went, I was greeted with a friendly, "Hi Dave". I was starting to feel like Norm on Cheers, but then realized the whole town was like Cheers and everybody was Norm! Even the fish are friendly, eager to come aboard the boat to introduce themselves, "Good afternoon, I’m Randall the Redfish, pleased to meet you David, now may I return to the water for a gulp of oxygen?"

The Apalachee and other Native Americans of the Apalachicola River area would come together in a place for a council or peace fire. The ground would be swept into a ring, forming a mound. The area inside this ring mound was called Apalachicola and is loosely translated to "area of peaceful people" or as the Black Creek Indians meant "people on the other side" or a much broader translation might be "Land of the friendly people". The names all seem appropriate.

Just minutes from the dock, you can be twisting into the network of waterways. Occasionally a hunting camp might be seen, but mile by mile we would drive the boat deeper into the history of the cypress lined waters. Back when troops trained for combat for both world wars, through the logging and paper industry and the War Between the States. As our journey continued, you could trace our path through the early settlers and Indian wars, past the Scottish traders of the late 1700’s, back past even the Spanish in the early 17th Century to the Indians who occupied the area for 10,000 years. It is easy to feel like you are parting the waters and sending waves onto shores untouched by man.

Of course it is this wild nature that has helped prevent the development of Apalachicola as a major seaport. The area is essentially a river delta and there is little stable land amongst the bayous and swamps. Apalachicola Bay is very shallow and aside from a dredge-maintained channel and "cut" to the gulf, the bay is not navigable for large ships. Other geographically attractive areas nearby developed into the commercial harbors and then cities.

Franklin County in 1995 had a population of 10,236 and probably has grown to around 13,000 by now. The closest commercial airport is in Panama City, just over an hour away. The area is remote and the closest four-lane highway is hundreds of miles away. However due to the increasing popularity of sport fishing and the white sand beaches of Saint George Island, a taste for "yesterday’s Florida" is increasing. The area is experiencing a rebirth and is trying to rejuvenate the existing architecture with businesses that cater to the new visitors. We can only hope this trend continues, for it would be a shame for such a beautiful place to be asphalted over with strip malls and condos.

Victorians, brick buildings and cinderblock bungalows dominate the architectural pool, but there is enough diversity to keep the area interesting. Apalachicola became incorporated January 28th, 1831 and is virtually surrounded by National Forest, preserves and the jewel of the area, Saint Vincent Island a wildlife refuge that helps protect the bay from hurricanes. To the east of East Point and inland from Carabelle, is Tate’s Hell Swamp…you can only imagine what lurks there!

Bald Eagles dominate the skies and are very plentiful. One evening I observed at the harbor—dubbed "Ten Foot Hole" by the locals—several eagles fighting over a fish carcass like loutish seagulls. One eagle in particular working the tides, dumps, sun angles—who knows—would make a daily appearance on a piling across the street from where I worked on Marc’s boat. This eagle would glide down Avenue G, looking impressive as hell and take roost on the piling and survey the ICW. After sitting for a spell the eagle would take off and join another eagle across the river for a chat. Like I said, everybody is friendly in Apalachicola.

The best way to reach Apalachicola is by boat. Cruising along the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW), Apalach is the perfect stopping point at mile 351. Everything the boater needs is within walking distance from the harbor. With an inflatable boat or a kayak, many of the waterways can be explored and fished.

On the eve of my departure back to California, Marc and I were invited to a Super Bowl party, hosted by Brigitte, a transplant from northern Germany by way of Tallahassee. Brigitte runs a B&B in a gorgeous Victorian home and the décor is authentic German/European with a touch of Apalachicola. Heavily decorated with priceless antiques, the home is nonetheless very warm and inviting. It sure felt like home, right down to the aroma of sauerbraten and dumplings wafting through the halls.

I felt like a complete oaf. Knowing Marc, I half expected a beer swilling good ol’boys super hoot. But then Marc does appreciate the good things in life and that explained the mind blowing sit down dinner—we were late—prior to watching the game on a big screen. Sipping fine beverages and enjoying a cherry jubilee at half time and enjoying great company, I could have died there happy! If Br igitte and Ken take care of their guests with half the kindness and savoir-faire, that they treated us, a guest will never leave unhappy!

During the game another party guest, Captain Trey Landry--dockmaster at Port St. Joe Marina--filled me in on the excellent fishing opportunities in the area. Mullet, shrimp and crabs are the prime forage for game fish and either alive, dead or in lure or fly form will catch fish. Bass, Catfish, Bluegills and Crappie are in the freshwater. Stripers, Redfish, Sea Trout, Sheep’s head and juvenile tarpon inhabit the brackish tidal waters and into the bay are joined seasonally by Ladyfish, TripleTail and huge Tarpon. Offshore the list grows to whatever you might find cruising the Gulf of Mexico. Trey has spent time guiding the waters of the famed Banana and Indian Rivers, but moved to Port Saint Joe because the fishing and wildlife is better and has less people on the water. Trey specializes in light tackle flats fishing and should anyone wanting to get a closer look at the area should contact Capt. Trey.

After ten days of fishing, boat work, a bird’s birthday party (Rosie the Spoonbill), Super Bowl party and meeting some great folks, I was not ready to return the present. Almost kicking and screaming all the way to the airport, I began my journey back across the continent to my home perched on the opposite edge. Everyone I met asked when I was coming back. They did so with the reassuring conviction that a return visit was inevitable and they just wanted to know when.

As soon as I learn word of the Tarpon moving into the bay I might be able to sneak back out for a visit or perhaps I’ll make it back in time for the Apalachicola Antique Wooden Boat Festival in April. Why go back to Apalachicola? Because it’s so beautiful!

Until next time!

This article is printed with permission from West Marine. Visit their website, http://www.westmarine.com for more boating supplies and information.